DAY 72: Thursday - May 13
Pete: Up at 6:00 a.m. for an hour's walk after breakfast. When the truck caught up, went up in the crow's nest for some rays. Beautiful blue sky day. Stopped for lunch just before the CAR/Cameroon border. Purchased an avocado at one of the numerous police checks. Made an outstanding salad of avocado, sliced tomato, onion, oil, vinegar, garlic salt and the "brochette pepper." That with a slice of french bread and margarine is a gourmet's delight. Crossed the border into the Cameroons around 1:30 today without incident. Stopped at the first village called Garoua Boulai. Bought some beautiful material (6 meters) for 4,000 franks talked down from 5,500 franks. Also came across some great chocolate bars for only 50 franks, so bought eight! Stopped into one of the local bars for an orange soda and the bartender took a fancy to my Casio calculator watch. Sold it to him for 25,000 franks much to Lillie's chagrin. Could not resist the chance to sell it for $86.20 since it cost only $50.00 a year and a half ago. "Does anybody really know what time it is? Does anybody really care?" Lillie: Today we crossed the border into Cameroon. The first town we stopped in had some lovely chocolate for 17 cents a bar and also some lovely fabrics. I bought some dyed print that I can share with Barbara. The Moslem influence is becoming stronger. All the men dress in long, white or colored cotton dresses. The fabrics must be very cool. I feel somewhat "under-dressed" with my shorts walking around town. We were able to bargain for my fabric and the "candy salesman" even threw in a "cadeau" of an extra candy bar. The villages are already changing; these huts have mud fences around them. DAY 73: Friday - May 14 Pete: Up before dawn this morning. Was able to eat a quick bowl of porridge and dismantle the tent and start my walk just in time to enjoy a beautiful sunrise. Hiked a pleasant 5 kilometers. Spent the day travelling northwest through central Cameroon. The countryside is somewhat similar to the rolling hills and valleys of the CAR, but not as thickly forested. Stopped at a lovely village called Meigangai for about 45 minutes of shopping. The market was very interesting and colorful. Wonderful vegetables, brightly printed linens and clothing and a large selection of general goods. Bought Binette 6 meters of purple print butterfly cloth for 3,000 franks. Bought myself a "Royal" watch for 2,300 franks (about $7.00). The best thing about the Cameroon so far is undoubtedly the people. Everyone we have encountered so far has been friendly, reserved and gentile. They all greet you with a bright "Bon Jour, Ce va?" and wave pleasantly at the truck when we pass. Rained for a couple of hours this afternoon. Lillie: We passed through several towns in the Cameroons today. One had a very large and colorful market; Meiganga. Pete purchased some more fabric. The Moslem influence is becoming stronger every day. Even the children are now dressed in robes with embroidered hats. We also stopped to camp at some lovely falls by the hydroelectric plant. DAY 74: Saturday - May 15 Pete: Forgot to mention that last Thursday night Lillie was attacked by the dreaded one-eyed trouser snake. Fortunately she had the antidote so there should not be any swelling. Up again before dawn. This time Lillie decided to forego doing the dishes and join me in a walk. Another beautiful sunrise today. Real pleasant hike through the countryside. Mostly pasture land for raising cattle. Rolling hills with a spattering of trees. Stopped early this morning at a lovely town called Ngaoundere. Arrived just as the market was opening up. Photographed the mosque and some young children. Loaded up on those 50 frank chocolate bars and a package of Nestle's cheese for 250 franks. Stopped by the military hospital because Donna was still not recovered totally from her malaria. While we parked there another overland vehicle (Encounter) pulled up and we rapped about each other's trip. They were heading south and said they really enjoyed the desert. Left the town after lunch and continued our way northwest through the Cameroon. Camped in the proverbial gravel pit. Looks like rain tonight. A parade through the streets of Ngaoundere
Lillie: Began the day with an approximately five mile walk with Pete. It was a pleasure to get away from the truck for a while. We met one local man who started walking with us. We also spent several hours at Ngaoundere; a lovely friendly village with a beautiful mosque. Hopefully, we will have some lovely pictures of the people and their homes/mosques. The children were especially eager to have their photos taken. We did not make any real purchases, but looked at locally made mats, Moslem robes and fizs (hats that Moslem's wear). The market was very organized and large. It appears we will be seeing more and more markets that reflect the craft and culture of the area. In that sense, the trip is becoming more and more intriguing. The mosque at Ngaoundere
DAY 75: Sunday - May 16 Pete: Got ambitious this morning and went out for a 50 minute (5.5 mile) run through the gently rolling hills along the paved road. Temperature perfect for exercise. Rolled into the town called Garoua for some shopping and a look around. Came upon a small craft exhibition and bought two baskets. One is a sort of lazy susan style serving basket for 2,000 franks. The other is a decorative oval shaped basket for 1,560 franks. The market in the town was rather "grotty" and swarming with flies. It was amazing how rapidly the terrain and climate turned completely arid in the period of several hours drive. Just a little north of Garoua the land turned completely desert. This evening's campsite was on the open flat desert plains. Set up a "mossie net" from one of the few scrub trees nearby and slept under the stars. Around dinner time we had a bit of a dust storm lasting about an hour. Could see the high rising clouds approaching rapidly on the horizon. Lillie: As we were driving today, we really found ourselves getting into arid land. Some of it reminded us of Kenya's savannah land. We paid a visit to Garoua today. I am really more and more amazed at the markets we are beginning to see. Today's market at Garoua was huge and would remain one of a medieval village. We even saw a diesel-powered peanut butter machine. We also took the opportunity to visit a cultural fair and purchased several baskets. The craftwork in the Cameroons is much more intricate than we have seen before; carved knives, leather goods, basketry, alligator/snake belts, etc. Baskets purchased at Garoua
DAY 76: Monday - May 17 Pete: Took a slight side trip to view the mountain village of Mokolo today. The roads were dirt and quite bumpy, so the going was somewhat slow and uncomfortable. Worth the effort, however, as the huts were quite unique and very creative in design from anything else we have seen in the myriad of styles across Africa. The family units are divided into separate huts about 10 feet in diameter connected by mud walls and arranged in a circular manner so that a private courtyard was in the middle. Each of the 6 to 10 huts in a family unit was made of a combination of mud and stone topped by a high rising cone of straw roof. From a distance, the compounds looked like miniature castles, quite impressive among the rocky hill sides. There was a small tourist attraction at Mokolo where sample huts were on display for inspection, though the models did not seem nearly as creative or authentic as the real things on the surrounding hillsides. Crossed into Nigeria in the afternoon after usual customs, immigration, exit/entry officialdom. Exhibits at Mokolo
Lillie: We crossed into Nigeria today. It is amazing how arid it is and how much water is needed to keep "one's liquids up." Early in the morning we went through Mokolo, which is a village that is supported by the government in the production of native crafts. It was somewhat touristy, but the landscape of granite rocks and desolate sand was quite a contrast to their coned thrashed huts. Their huts are usually constructed in circles with an effect of looking like a castle. We saw some of the same craftwork that we purchased in Garoua. We should have some good photos of the huts. The huts changed dramatically once we crossed the Nigerian border. |
These huts have mud fences around them The best thing about the Cameroon so far is undoubtedly the people Everyone we have encountered so far has been friendly, reserved and gentile They all greet you with a bright "Bon Jour, Ce va?" and wave pleasantly at the truck when we pass It was amazing how rapidly the terrain and climate turned completely arid in the period of several hours drive The huts were quite unique and very creative in design from anything else we have seen in the myriad of styles across Africa The family units are divided into separate huts about 10 feet in diameter connected by mud walls and arranged in a circular manner so that a private courtyard was in the middle Each of the 6 to 10 huts in a family unit was made of a combination of mud and stone topped by a high rising cone of straw roof From a distance, the compounds looked like miniature castles, quite impressive among the rocky hill sides |