DAY 105: Tuesday - June 15
Pete: Finally reached the border town of Bechar this morning. Surprisingly modern with many shops. Lillie, Martin and I went shopping in the market for anything we could find since we start cooking again tomorrow. Quite a clean and fresh mint smelling open air market, though the selection consisted mainly of tomatoes, onions, beans, squash and lamb. Bruce located an ice cream store down the road a couple of blocks, so off I raced with Lillie trailing behind. Ate two of the creamy, strawberry cones and would have eaten more had it not been for an empty wallet. Headed for the boulangerie and waited for fresh bread to be distributed to a dozen or more eager customers. Pulled up to the border post which was about 10 kilometers out of town, around 3:00 p.m. The hour of processing seemed like ten, but amazingly our forged student hostel cards got us through without a hitch. Finally cleared Moroccan customs at 7:00 p.m. and entered our 10th African country at Figuig. Lillie: Today we cleared the Algerian/Moroccan border. We stopped however, in Bechar in Algeria to spend the rest of our Algerian dinans. Mainly, we stuffed ourselves with ice cream and pastries. Also had a small wash at the border. The border was actually an oasis with many palm trees that reminded us of Hawaii. The Moroccan border post (and it really fit the name) was merely a table, a telephone, a chair and two tents. It looked like a war outpost. The scenery changed almost immediately when we crossed the border. The ground is becoming alive with green again. Oasis(s) seem more numerous. There are mountains on the horizon and it threatens of rain more often. In fact, it may become tent weather again. We are getting tired of each other in the group. It seems that no one cares that they insult someone else. Sometimes I feel that I do not like people very much (not if I have to live with them). Anyway, I am looking forward to Morocco. Africa really takes a toll on the body (physically and mentally). DAY 106: Wednesday - June 16 Pete: A beautiful day all day. Slightly overcast, so it never got too hot. Headed north up the Moroccan east side. The landscape changed quite a bit from that of the Algerian desert. We passed through a huge valley between mountain ranges on each side. The valley with endless acres of low scrub brush and the barren low mountains looked very much like the Sierras of California and the adjacent Death Valley. Stopped at several small towns for shopping and refreshments, once before lunch (Bouarfa) and later in the afternoon at a town called Ain Bni Mathar. Both were lovely, laid-back developments with quite a nice mixture of old and new buildings. The shops were well stocked with goods. Everyone we encountered was very friendly, polite and generally helpful. It is obvious that this part of the country does not get much tourist traffic, for everywhere we went we get much attention and smiling waves, but no aggressive "cadeau" seeking or pushy salesmanship. Would not mind spending more time in this area. Prices are excellent. A loaf of bread is .75 dirham, a packet of cheese is 2.75 dirhams, a Coke is 1.6 dirhams and a kilo of tomatoes is 3.5 dirhams. Lillie: We had a pleasant drive through Morocco today. We stopped in a small town in the morning where they were just opening up a new bank. I think we were the first customers. They did not have enough money to complete all the transactions so they had to send out for it. Pete did some shopping since he is cooking; watermelon, bread, tomatoes, etc. Things are really cheap there. Cokes are 20 cents. We stopped in the afternoon in a town where craftsmen were making rugs. Morocco is getting more and more green with short grasslands/scrubs filling the horizon. Hilly country suddenly appeared around 5:00 p.m., just in time to make it our campsite for the night. After 3 weeks in the Sahara Desert living off canned provisions, we enjoyed the abundant spices, fresh fruits and veggies offered by the Moroccan vendors
DAY 107: Thursday - June 17 Pete: Arrived in Fez around 3:00 p.m. after a very scenic drive all morning. Martin and I cooked and put out a tremendous lunch of mishtah, onion, tomato, cucumber and cheese sandwiches. The first view we had of the old city (Medina) of Fez was breathtaking. The city sits on a hill and is a maze of adjoining buildings and alleys all painted white, some in place since before the 14th century. As we were driving on the main thoroughfare, we were flagged down by a handsome dark-haired Moroccan lad offering guide services for anything we might desire. David was of course driving and I was in my cook's shotgun position in the cab. Something made us decide to take a chance with him and fortunately, we were not to be disappointed in the next 24 hours. We started off with an afternoon tour of the Medina mixing points of interest such as the tannery and dye pits with the ceramic tile manufacturing shop with the children apprentice mosaic artisans, with the various shops selling brass ware, leather and carpets. We succumbed to the lure of Moroccan hand sewn carpets and bought two for 8,950 dirhams ($1,500). Quotable quote by the carpet salesman at Fez, "...don't buy fish lying on the beach...". The sights, smells, and excitement of the Medina were intoxicating. Lillie: We had a lovely day today. Entered the city of Fez, around 3:30 p.m. The morning was spent travelling through the foothills of the Atlas Mountains. The wind blowing off the barley fields was chilling. In fact, we all put on our sweaters. Fez was great. A guide named Mohammed (of course) spent the afternoon taking us through the medina (market) among the donkeys and mosques (over 100 in the city). We bought two lovely carpets that we will have for a lifetime. The colorfulness and activity of the market place was exciting. There is such a variety of people, costumes and the donkeys carry everything from milk pales to bales of mint leaf. We saw the former mosque school once habitated by young boys from the 14th century to 120 years ago. The entrances to the mosques were beautiful, but of course women are not allowed in. We also saw the dye pits where the tanning process is done. Animal hair and skins were everywhere, not something for one with a weak stomach. Before we got the sales pitch for the carpets, we were shown two children (girls) between age 8 and 10 making one of the berber carpets. One of the children could complete a knot with one hand. Mohammed says that the children from poor families do not go to school, but instead will take up a trade such as brass-making, looming-weaving, etc. (as these girls did) at a very early age. The berber rugs are simple designs (beige with brown symbols). They take several months to make, while the rugs with 400 knots per inch take over a year to complete. I would like to come back to Morocco to purchase other rugs and sell them for a profit! It could be a possibility for added income! DAY 108: Friday - June 18 Pete: Up early this morning. No one wanted to miss the opportunity to return to the medina. Mohammed led us to a bath house and for the next hour we saunaed and were massaged and scrubbed pink by the masseuse; all for 10 dirhams. Had a super time stopping at the outdoor shops for mint tea and honey soaked pastilla. Went with Rob and Mohammed for an excellent hour of bargaining for a hand carved wood water pipe. Reluctantly left Fez and our new found friend Mohammed. Exchanged gifts of Johnny Walker and promises to correspond. Also unforgettable was the lunch in the local greasy spoon. The drive to Rabat was beautiful, for lack of a more descriptive word. Mile upon mile of kaleidoscopic scenery. Olive orchards, cork trees, sunflower fields, mountains covered with barley and workers riding thatch laden donkeys. Decided today Morocco must be absorbed with more time. Will definitely return in the future. Lillie: We spent the morning seeing the city of Fez. We were taken by Mohammed to the public baths in the hopes of taking a sauna and having a massage. However, as a woman there was no place for me in the sauna. I did, however, spend an hour watching various Moroccan men walk around in their underwear! Pete appeared to have gotten a proper scrub, in that his tan has disappeared. We had a noisy, fair lunch at a local cafe. I had something close to lemon chicken. We travelled on to Rabat in the afternoon. The campsite at Rabat is nothing to compare to Fez. Just a flat piece of sandy land in front of the ocean serving as a campsite. We finally hit the Atlantic Ocean. So in some ways, we made it across Africa, one coast to another coast! I am also finding that I had rather camp in the bush than in some of the campsites. We all are amazed at how cool it is. It must be the fact that we were just in the desert. Our poor bodies have really been through lots of changes in the last three months. DAY 109: Satuday - June 19 Pete: The Rabat campsite was situated right on the beach, so the sleeping was good in the cool, salt air cuddled in the warmth of the sleeping bags. We went for a walk along the beach, pausing to make our transit across Africa complete to dip our hands (finally) in the cold Atlantic Ocean. I think we both felt a deep feeling of accomplishment at that moment. Went with the truck over to see the Royal Palace and the surrounding grounds. Left Rabat after a super lunch of strawberries, cherries, peaches, apricots and plums. All fresh picked and all flawlessly plump. Drove down the coast to Casablanca stopping along the way at a beach for some frolicking and for me to run barefoot along the sand beachline. Had a couple of hours to look around downtown Casablanca. Seemed to be the most cosmopolitan city we have as yet visited in Africa. Much more so than even Nairobi. Not without its charm though with open air, neat and inviting fruit stands, patisseries on every corner, sidewalk tea shops and a mixture of traditional and modern Arab Moroccans. The Royal Palace
Lillie: I enjoyed the morning on the beach with Pete. A little too cool for a swim however. We did have mint tea and talked over our future. We left for the "Royal Palace" around 10:30 a.m. Security is high around the palace; however, the guards were most courteous. After a lovely lunch of some of the best fruit I have ever had (plums, peaches, strawberries, cherries, etc.), we made our way to Casablanca. We stopped for a short swim in the Mediterranean, but found the water too cold. Casablanca was somewhat of a disappointment. It is a modern French-oriented city. The market was full of western clothes, sterno equipment. Not much original local craftwork. The pastry shops were very abundant and sinful. We indulged twice today. It looks like we will have to go back to Rabat after Marrakech to get visas for the Aussies for Spain. DAY 110: Sunday - June 20
Pete: Walked from a campsite last evening in search of a nice Moroccan food restaurant. Unfortunately, the campgrounds were located in a section of the city that was dominated by independent radiator repair shops and industrial warehouses. Walked for ages, but found only the redeeming patisserie which, after the compulsory purchase (it is 100 years bad luck to pass a patisserie in Morocco without sampling a goodie), provided us the bolstering we needed for the brisk walk home to be in time for the fresh fish steak supper from the frying pan. Drove to Marrakech this morning. A guide on a moped showed us immediately to the municipal campsite so by 3:00 in the afternoon, Lillie and I were off walking to the Djemaa el Fna. Never experienced the likes of it before, but after a couple of blocks of walking, I was leeched upon by five young Berber women whose ages I would guess to range from 14 to 19. They were brazenly flirting with me, much to Lillie's smiling chagrin and encircled us for most of the walk to the market. Felt like a rock star pursued by adoring fans. Though we could not communicate a word of each other's language, the object was clear that they wanted to purchase me from Lillie. An ego trip extraordinaire. Lillie: We left Casablanca early this morning to make our way to Marrakech, arriving there in the afternoon. Pete and I immediately began our walk to the medina (market area). Marrakech is renown for its medina of snake charmers, storytellers and the like. On the way to the medina, we were confronted by 4 or 5 young Arab women in robes who were obviously enchanted by Pete and perplexed by me (or something like that). They followed us almost to the medina giggling and cooing. Apparently, even though the robes made these young girls appear very shy and retiring, the young women instead were aggressive in their stares and comments. In fact, in the marketplace, the hardest merchants to get rid of were the women. The marketplace was as enchanting as Fez. Alleys upon alleys of brass, silver, leather goods, baskets, carpets, fruits and vegetables. About 7:00 p.m., after a great Moroccan meal (including tomato, olive salad that I really want the recipe for), we went back to the medina. Apparently, in the evening all the local people and the entertainers come out. There were dancers, a comedy band, snake charmers, medicine men, acrobats on bicycles, storytellers and magicians. What an absolutely fabulous cultural experience! Merchants were also selling their wares. About 9:00 p.m., we decided to go back to the campsite in a horse and carriage. Tim and Rob were also recruiting for a carriage. For 10 drachmas (a little over $1.00) we got a superb ride and the promise that the driver would return at 8:00 a.m. to show us a tour of the town. One of the most memorable days we have had. Marrakech is a real meeting place for desert, mountain people. DAY 111: Monday - June 21 Pete: Had dinner in a lovely old hotel last evening that was located facing the Djemaa el Fna. Tastefully decorated in traditional Moroccan style, the food the young dark-haired Moroccan served was what we had come to expect of Marrakech. I tried the pastilla with pigeon while Lillie stuck with the tried and true lemon chicken. Exited straight to the market square just as things were starting to cook with snake charmers, story tellers, and musicians performing ardently to an ever increasing crowd. Had a great time meandering among the pandemonium until we tired and rode home in a lovely horse and carriage with Rob and Tim. Off at 8:00 a.m. this morning on a tour of the city in the same carriage we had used last night. The next two and a half hours were a mesmerizing and enchanting flow of ancient 12th century palaces, tombs of sultans, museums and stall lined streets. A stop for mint tea and then a return to the Medina for another excellent round of bargaining, this time for a pair of dark leather sandals for Lillie. Then a cab ride back to the campsite at 1:00 p.m. just in time to catch the truck due for departure to Rabat. An excellent visit to Magic Marrakech. Lillie: We began the day at 8:00 a.m. with our horse/carriage tour. We saw two lovely palaces, Palace el Bedi, which is actually a "partheon" type relic with stocks on its towers. There is also an amazing "Kasbah" (enclosed fortress) probably built in the 13th or 14th century. The Koutowbia Mosque is a 12th century example of architecture of the Almobad tribes. The Saudi tombs house tombs of sultans and their families. The more modern Babea Palace has elaborate cedar doors/ceilings, joundarns, etc. The king, prime minister and their harems used these quarters in the 19th century until the early 20th century. Finally, we stopped at the Dar de Said Museum which proved to be a good introduction to Moroccan art/crafts, wood carving, etc. Berber jewelry and a fascinating wood ferris wheel for children. The market in Marrakech is called Djemaacl Fna (assembly of the dead!). We made a last effort to see some more of the market area after our two hour tour. I bought some sandals and we rushed back to the truck for our 1:00 p.m. departure for Rabat again. It looks as though we will be driving late in the evening to catch the World Cup this weekend in Spain. We camped in the cold foothills of the Atlas Mountains tonight. Pete and I have definitely decided to make it back to Morocco. DAY 112: Tuesday - June 22
Pete: Took a different road back to Rabat, this time more inland along the foothills of the Atlas mountain range. More gorgeous scenery all along the way, making it difficult to believe and remember that only two days drive away is the barren and devoid Sahara desert. Arrived in Rabat at 9:00 a.m. and waited until the afternoon for the Australians to obtain visas for Spain. Lillie and I spent the time wandering around downtown through the market and modern stores just window shopping. Came very close to buying a slick, dark gray leather jacket perfectly styled for motorcycle riding, but the inflated city price of $125.00 and a diminishing Europe cash supply made reason prevail. Could not make it through the day though without some nourishment at one of the numerous patisseries. Left town in the afternoon and found a campsite somewhere on the road north to Tetouan. Our last night in Africa was bittersweet. Relished the thought of Europe and its amenities, but regretted leaving Morocco so soon after merely sampling its many delights. Lillie: Today we traveled to Rabut to get Spanish visas and then on to the coast for the crossing into Spain. We will cross at Ceuta to Gibraltor. We spent the morning looking around Rabut and enjoying the pastry shops. Another cold evening camping in a cork tree forest. DAY 113: Wednesday - June 23 Pete: Our last day in Africa! Drove to Tetouan, the last town in Morocco. Cleared Moroccan customs with no hassle and moved on over to Cueta, a Spanish town physically located on the African continent. Again, no problem with customs and we had several hours to kill before the next ferry departed. Lillie and I headed straight to the nearest restaurant and chowed down on excellent Spanish food and red wine. It was a beautiful day for a ferry crossing and we enjoyed the sunny sky, smooth blue water and the harbors on both sides of the Straits of Gibraltar. The Mediterranean looks so much more inviting for a swim than the Atlantic. Had to pass through another customs check on the other side and it looked ominous with police tearing apart several cars and dogs sniffing around for drugs. Amazingly, we got no more than a cursory look around by one of the officials and we were finally on our way and happily on the continent of Europe after 113 days in Africa. Lillie: Another early morning in order to make the ferry to Spain. Quite a lovely drive through rolling wheat (barley fields) and lovely farmland. Spent several hours in the Spanish town of Ceuta. Prices there are very cheap since it is a duty-free port. We had a lovely lunch for $5.50 each. We will be moving swiftly through Spain in hopes of making the World Cup Game on Friday. |
The scenery changed almost immediately when we crossed the border. The ground is becoming alive with green again. The first view we had of the old city (Medina) of Fez was breathtaking.
The city sits on a hill and is a maze of adjoining buildings and alleys all painted white, some in place since before the 14th century. The sights, smells, and excitement of the Medina were intoxicating.
There is such a variety of people, costumes and the donkeys carry everything from milk pales to bales of mint leaf.
One of the children could complete a knot with one hand. Had a super time stopping at the outdoor shops for mint tea and honey soaked pastilla. Pete appeared to have gotten a proper scrub, in that his tan has disappeared.
The pastry shops were very abundant and sinful.
We indulged twice today. I was leeched upon by five young Berber women.....
They were brazenly flirting with me..... .....they wanted to purchase me from Lillie. An ego trip extraordinaire. Alleys upon alleys of brass, silver, leather goods, baskets, carpets, fruits and vegetables.
There were dancers, a comedy band, snake charmers, medicine men, acrobats on bicycles, storytellers and magicians.
..... a mesmerizing and enchanting flow of ancient 12th century palaces, tombs of sultans, museums and stall lined streets.
Our last night in Africa was bittersweet. Relished the thought of Europe and its amenities, but regretted leaving Morocco so soon after merely sampling its many delights. |