DAY 34: Monday - April 5
Pete: Fairly heavy rain today until about noon, when we arrived at the Rwanda border. The area we passed through was not very populated. No villages at all. The hills were lush green with all sorts of beautiful vegetation. There was a white cloudy mist hanging over the countryside making the whole area look like Hobbit land. First campsite just inside the Rwanda border overlooking a valley. Not any problem exiting Tanzania, but the Rwanda border was closed from 11:00 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Had lunch at the border post, dried some clothes which had been sitting wet for several days, and read until the officials returned to process us through. As soon as we crossed the border, encountered a nicely paved road for the first time since we left Nairobi. It is illegal to camp in Rwanda, so we must take care to camp in out-of-the-way places. Cannot write anymore, Lillie is getting frisky! |
Cloudy mist on the Rwandan hills makes the area look like a Hobbit land
Lillie:
Today we left Tanzania in a pouring rain, sliding up ridges to green lush Rwanda. Most of the day was spent at the Rwandan border waiting for the border officials. They took a two-hour lunch break. The border is on the Rusumo Falls, which was a very full falls of muddy rushing water. It must be much fuller than usual because of the heavy rains. We saw a hippo trying to go upstream. It was great to have a break during the middle of the day. Pete and I took a few photos when we arrived at our campsite for the night. Since camping is illegal in Rwanda, we found a spot off the road. Believe it or not with a view. Hopefully no one sees us! I don't know what the consequences would be if we were discovered. Tomorrow we head for Kigali and then on to the mountain gorillas! DAY 35: Tuesday - April 6 Pete: Gained one hour through time zone. Stopped briefly at Kigali around 10:30. Discovered it was a holiday so all the banks and major places of business were closed. Had no money, so moved on. Purchased small basket set ($3.33) at Kigali. Fell in love with Rwanda today. The countryside just got more beautiful the deeper we got inside. The entire area is a continuous succession of mountains and valleys. Did not realize it previously, but Rwanda is the most populated as well as one of the wealthiest countries in Africa. Virtually every square mile of land is utilized for farming by these industrious people. It is obvious that they work hard and as a result raise enough produce to supply their own needs and have enough left over to sell in the large markets. Came across a Chinese labor camp for our campsite. The Chinese are building a road for the Rwandans. Only the general foreman could speak French, but he immediately offered us the hospitality to stay there. Too late for dinner with them, but we attended their movies. The first flick was a propaganda film about the home of the Chinese President. The second was a tearjerker about twins. They saved us front row seats in the tin building, gave us an ovation when we arrived, and served us jasmine tea. Even though the films were in Chinese, enjoyed the entertainment anyway. Lillie: We made it to Kigali today, but what a letdown. Everything was closed since the President of Zambia was in town. So we made our way toward Ruhengari, the site of Volcanoes Park and the mountain gorillas. We ended up camping at a compound that is a construction site for a road crew made up of Chinese who were aiding the Rwandians in building their road. They invited us for a movie and tea. The movie included a tour of Mao's residence and a heavy drama about twin sisters becoming separated during the revolution. It was easy enough to follow the plot without understanding the language. None of the Chinese spoke French except the manager. It is perplexing that the Chinese would get involved in Rwanda. It makes one wonder what they are after - resources? Rwanda is a military dictatorship which may be swaying toward communism. The Chinese have taught the blacks to use the heavy equipment, which they provided. It appears that the Chinese have quite a storage of goods (lovely jasmine tea) and other luxury food items. They were most pleasant to us and it was a pleasure to have a look at their culture. Mao's residence was very simple (no interior decoration). Basic living quarters with squared-off chairs, in greys and blacks, etc. His library was also shown, which was surprisingly by his bed. He likes a little late night reading, like me! DAY 36: Wednesday, April 7 Pete: Up at the usual time today (6:00 a.m.). Travelled to Ruhengari. The roads from Kigali on were the unpaved variety, but generally in good condition. Ruhengari is a pleasant little town. Nothing fancy, a large market and a few of the old cement buildings circa 1870. But there are quite a few items to buy compared to Tanzania. Not much in the way of crafts or souvenirs, but beer at 72 franks a liter is worth a try. Spent most of the afternoon cruising the market and sucking brews at a local restaurant. Nobody wants to trade in this country. Basically, this is because all the tradeable items such as t-shirts, cigarettes, soap, etc., are in ample supply every where so most of the merchants are only interested in cash. Not just any cash, Rwandian franks. American dollars do not throw a lot of weight like in most of the African countries. There is no black market in Rwanda. Camped about a 40 minute drive out of town on the edge of Virunga National Park to visit the volcanoes and the gorillas. Lillie: It looks like we will be spending quite a few days here in Ruhengari, so that everyone can have the opportunity to see the gorillas. It appears to be quite a hike. I am trying to get my ankle strong again so I can handle it. I don't want to miss it. It will be nice to spend several days camped in the same place. The weather has been our sore spot. It continues to be wet and very damp. I went to town today and helped with the purchasing of the food. We purchased beautiful tomatoes, corn and a hand of bananas. Some of our group went on a hike up a volcano today. They got caught in the rain and came back really wet, tired and cold. It appears that it was a steep hike with loads of mud. Glad we did not try it! DAY 37: Thursday - April 8 Pete: Went into the town of Ruhengari today for some shopping. First of three days on the cooking rotation, so must shop for food. The open air market was not quite as bustling today as yesterday. The selection of fruits and vegetables was not as good. It is more difficult to bargain when neither party can communicate in the language of the other. Got around the barriers somehow. Resorted to writing down offers and counter offers, but due to the color of my skin and inability to communicate, I am sure the prices were inflated over what the local clientele would pay. Also stopped at the bank (Lillie did) and exchanged a $100.00 traveller's check. Had a bland lunch of rice and cabbage and Fanta orange at a "local" restaurant. Paid only 150 franks for both Lillie and my lunch combined. Lillie: Today was a relaxing day! Although I had diarrhea all night, Pete and I spent the day doing laundry, getting organized and just "playing" around the campsite. We finally got a fire started after two nights of only a diesel fire. It has been very cold at night and it would have been great to have a roaring fire. DAY 38: Friday - April 9 Pete: Still awaiting our turn to see the gorillas. Camped outside of Ruhengari, about an hour drive. Lillie is stricken again with the back yard trots. Seems more susceptible to the water or something. I still have not suffered internal problems of any kind to date. She was up most of the night last night digging holes in the ground under a full moon. Decided to remain at the campsite today to relax and get caught up on some washing. A couple of the idle guides agreed to provide some firewood for 200 franks. So we washed all our clothes and then took a thorough sponge bath in delightfully hot water. Rained like the devil around 5:00 p.m. for about half an hour just as we were getting the meal ready. Doused the fire of course and it took ages to get it lit again. Never did restore it to its previous level and dinner was delayed until 8:30 p.m. Collapsed in bed immediately after the meal. DAY 39: Saturday - April 10 Pete: We decided to be last on the list to see the gorillas in order to give Lillie a chance to recuperate from her sprained ankle. Stayed at the campsite with her again today. She had a better night last night and gradually started eating bread and potatoes. I am convinced the problems afflicting her and others in the group are the result of unsanitary cooking and wash-up procedures. A lot of people are under 22 and several are real slobs. The most disturbing aspect is the lack of support for appropriate sanitary procedures from the Guerba leaders, David and Verona, and the other 3 “nurses” along for the ride. It is frustrating trying to get the others to see the light. Quite a relaxing day today. Spent most of the time reading the never ending "Rise and Fall of the Third Reich" and snoozing in the tent. Last day of cooking (thank God). It is a real effort to purchase food and cook for 18 people for 3 days in a row. DAY 40: Easter Sunday - April 11 Pete: The best day of the trip so far. Left for the start of the gorilla hunt around 8:00 a.m. Joined our guide (Joseph) and his rifleman around 9:00 a.m. and immediately started the trek into the nearby mountains. Picked up their train quickly, but had to climb amongst dense jungle up the mountain for about two hours. Lillie did very well considering her weak ankle and lack of food the previous day. The bamboo and undergrowth was so thick that frequently we had to resort to crawling on our bellies to make our way. It was so dense that even 400 AA film would only yield a shutter speed of 30 with a 100mm lens. Efforts were rewarded with interest. Came upon "Group 9" with the infamous "Le Chef," the king of the mountain gorillas. He reputedly weighs 260 kilos (573 pounds) and is 5'9". His head was massive. An incredible beast. He was enjoying his Easter Sunday brunch with his wife and two kids. Was with them at close range (10 to 25 feet) for about an hour. Observed in awe. Enjoyed the guide's gorilla noises they make to reassure the gorillas and ensure recognition. Le Chef and his family are 4 of the last remaining Mountain Gorillas (200 left). Mountain Gorillas are 1 of 3 races of the species. Magnificent! Le Chef, King of the Mountain Silverback Gorillas
Lillie, Donna, and Robyn pose with the rangers that took us on our gorilla trek
(These rangers are a continuation of the anti-poaching squad that was originally founded by Dian Fossey and documented in the movie "Gorillas in the Mist. They protect the gorillas and take small groups of 4 people with them on their daily treks. We had the rare privilege of joining them this day to meet Le Chef and his family in the dense rain forest jungle) DAYS 38-40: Friday thru Easter Sunday - April 9-11 Lillie: We spent another day relaxing at the campground trying to get over an upset stomach. Tomorrow we plan to do the gorillas. I do hope I will be strong enough. Poor Pete has been working so hard for the last several days preparing meals, etc. It is a real struggle preparing meals with meat that is not good and no fire. It spoils the pleasure he gets out of cooking meals. It is also very tiring to deal with all the personalities here. DAY 41: Monday - April 12 Pete: Even though everyone had already seen the gorillas, we could not head on because we needed petrol and all the banks and gas stations were closed due to the extended Easter holiday. Spent the day at the campsite doing laundry, sewing, reading, and relaxing. Really enjoyed it since from everything we have heard, Zaire will be a muddy, bumpy, rainy crossing. Lillie is recovering fairly well from her intestinal problems and sprained ankle. Did not rain again today so perhaps the rainy season is coming to an end. The campsite is on the edge of the Volcanoes National Park which is really an extension of the Zaire portion called Virunga National Park. The population density of Rwanda has increased to such an extent that the Volcanoes Park has decreased by half since its formation in the 1960's. While the Park occupies only 1% of the land mass of Rwanda, it receives over 10% of the country's rainfall. The vegetation retains the water and gradually releases it into the water table supplying adequate water to a substantial portion of Rwanda. Lillie: The day we had been waiting for had finally dawned! We began our hike at 9:00 a.m. to see the gorillas. After a hardy climb of almost three hours, our guides finally located the family. The male was named "Le Chef." He was in the company of his wife and two children. He was so massive. It was both scary and exhilarating to be so close to these wild animals. It was certainly worth the hike through the dense forest, that constantly demanded that our guides cut through the bush. The photographs should be breathtaking. It is an adventure that is difficult to share in words, a once in a lifetime experience! |
Fell in love with Rwanda today The countryside just got more beautiful the deeper we got inside His head was massive. An incredible beast. He was enjoying his Easter Sunday brunch with his wife and two kids Le Chef and his family are 4 of the last remaining Mountain Gorillas (200 left) |